New Downtown Market serves terrific tacos, classic burgers in stylish surroundings

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True North Square’s new dining hall features the full-service Gusto North (reviewed earlier this month), as well as more casual kiosks. This week we’ll start with Yard Burger and the Good Fight Taco.

Restaurant review

Hargrave Street Market
242 Hargrave Street, second floor

Choose for: a local restaurant sampler served with catering equipment
Best bet: small tacos with great taste
Sector: $ 10 to $ 15

Hargrave Street Market
242 Hargrave Street, second floor

Choose for: a local restaurant sampler served with catering equipment
Best bet: small tacos with great taste
Sector: $ 10 to $ 15

Monday Thursday: 11 am-midnight; Friday and Saturday: 11 am-1am; Sunday: 11 am-10pm
Authorized: Yes
Noise level: high during peak periods
Accessible to wheelchairs: Yes

Hargravestmarket.com

Backyard burger: 1/2 out of five

The good fighting taco: ★★★★ out of five

STAR POWER

Excellent
Very well
Well
★★ Mediocre
Below standard
No star Not recommended

Hargrave St. Market immediately signals its distance from the much-maligned mall food court. Its layout, refined and contemporary, follows the model of the high-end food hall.

Food kiosks are local businesses, not chains. There is a variety of seating, from lounges to long communal tables, some with banquettes, as well as small tables and counter stools. At night the lighting is atmospheric and during the day the sun penetrates through the bay windows.

The food comes out on sturdy metal platters with real dishes and cutlery, and, of course, the venue is licensed, with wine, craft cocktails and local beers on tap at the Rose Bar, as well as options from the Lake of the Woods Brewing Company, which will be brewed on site later this year.


El pastor tacos, made from pulled pork shoulder and pineapple, from Good Fight Taco.  (Mike Sudoma / Winnipeg Free Press)

El pastor tacos, made from pulled pork shoulder and pineapple, from Good Fight Taco. (Mike Sudoma / Winnipeg Free Press)

The downtown location, at the Kittens Corner of the Bell MTS Center, means the hall fills up before Jets games and other arena events. And while parking can be difficult at these times, dinner is not. Hargrave St. Market is designed to handle crowds, whether it’s the hundreds of sports fans who need to be fed and on their way before the puck falls, or people like me who want. just good tacos.

In addition to efficient kitchens, there is a buzzer system – after you place your order, you receive a buzzer that flashes when your food is ready – which prevents a crush from developing around counters.

And the food ? Most of the time, it’s laid back but thoughtful.

Yard Burger, for example, keeps it simple. These burgers are not garnished with truffle oil and Roquefort oil and caramelized shallots. They’re more like well-executed versions of an old-fashioned kitchen burger, simple and satisfying, both nostalgic and hip.

The 342 burger emphasizes the Wagyu beef patty, which is dark and crisp, if not crispy, on the edges and meaty in the middle. The toppings aren’t too picky, consisting of cheese, butter lettuce, a thin slice of pickle, and a little house sauce. Bothwell bacon or cheddar are optional surcharges.


The 342 Crushed Burger includes a Wagyu beef patty.  (Mike Sudoma / Winnipeg Free Press)

The 342 Crushed Burger includes a Wagyu beef patty. (Mike Sudoma / Winnipeg Free Press)

Everything is wrapped in a pleasantly moist Martin’s potato bun. Currently the “it” bun used by trendy American chains like Shake Shack, this unassuming bun complements the meat rather than competing with it.

In addition to the classic beef burger, there are chicken and plant-based options. The fries are also good, medium in size and salty just right.

The Good Fight Taco – along with Yard, a Merchant Kitchen outpost – serves small but potent tacos (three per order). The savory barbacoa is served with cabbage, a mix of queso fresco and smoked Wagyu beef cheek. (Although I’m not sure Wagyu beef is really needed here: the whole point of slow cooking in barbacoa is that it makes cheap cuts taste great).

Al pastor, the rich pulled pork shoulder contrasting with the diced pineapple and pickled onions, and the rooster, with tons of savory crunch from its fried chicken thigh and a little heat from fillets of hot sauce and chili aioli are also good. .


The new downtown food court features stylish banquettes and floor-to-ceiling windows.  The hall is packed before the Jets games.  (Mike Sudoma / Winnipeg Free Press)

The new downtown food court features stylish banquettes and floor-to-ceiling windows. The hall is packed before the Jets games. (Mike Sudoma / Winnipeg Free Press)

There’s also a big – really big – salad, starting with delicate butter lettuce and ending with avocado, black beans, queso fresco, and crispy tortilla strips.

(Reviews of other places in Hargrave St. Market, including Saburo Kitchen, Miss Browns, and Fools + Horses, will be posted in the coming weeks.)

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Alison gillmor

Alison gillmor
Writer

A student at the University of Winnipeg and later at York University in Toronto, Alison Gillmor was considering becoming an art historian. She eventually caught the journalism bug when she started as a visual arts critic for the Winnipeg Free Press in 1992.

Read the full biography


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